Key West, a midday sail and....a 'robust wind surge'???? March 20 and 21

Friday arrived and we actually did as we planned to do.......go to Key West! Following the planned schedule of events is important to Christopher and the constant "change of plans" refrain of the last couple of days had not been popular with him so today was our day for things to go smoothly. We had a moment of doubt when we drove by another sign announcing a bridge closure but we all agreed that the date we read was for April and continued on. With the same streets to cruise for Christopher he once again got the chance to hang out in the pool with mom after a fabulously stuffing meal. Meanwhile the others all went to see the sights of the main drag. We all met up again and went for a waterside drink as the sun was setting to the delight of the crowd at Mallory Square.

The last day of the visit had weather that was predicted to be changeable with a robust wind surge later in the day. The wind was brisk but not crazy yet so we went for a real sail out on the ocean. This was our first chance to do this with Steve and Syl and so it was time for each of them to take the helm. With the boat in capable hands I got to be on the lookout for turtles and other things. Steve's helming was smooth sailing, and so was Syl's - sort of. Syl's first tack was a bit slow and we kinda got a bit stuck head to wind, but came out of it quickly. So the next tack was more aggressive and into a significant gust. This caused our most exciting heeling of the day as people and things slid from one side of the boat to the other with short gasps of excitement I think. Christopher thought it was great and laughed about it for the rest of the trip. I'd say their first ocean sail was a wonderful success!

Back in the harbor for the last evening we got to sing happy Birthday to Syl and Shirley (for next month) with candles in Key Lime pie. More food, more drinks and some reflection on the week and then it was time to hit the bunks for a raucus windy night. At 4:30 we were up and loading the dinghy for the windy, bumpy ride to shore and the trip home for the new sea faring adventurers.

Thanks for a fabulous visit Steve and Syl! We miss you already.

Carolyn, you're next...

Change of plans! Bridge is closed! Toilet broke! Waterspout sighted! March 18 and 19

The first days went as planned and everything cooperated. And then…it all changed! First we hopped into the car to zoom down to Key West. Part way along we realized the 7 Mile bridge was closing at 8pm for the night. Screeeech! Head on back! Don’t want to be stranded out there. All the food and drink are back on the boat! As always though, this presented the opportunity to spend the afternoon dinghying over to the beach to swim and bask in the sun. Well most of us rode the dinghy. Shirley volunteered to paddle the kayak the whole way and did so in record time. The water was warmer than it has been all season so jumping in and splashing around was great fun. We found out how our different body types float in salt water, but I won’t elaborate on those details.

Change of plans! Next day we planned to head off to anchor out at Bahia Honda. The weather was iffy but seemed OK enough. Just as our final preparations were happening Shirley calls from down below. “There seems to be a problem captain. The head (boat language for toilet) is broken!” Five people on the boat and no potty doesn’t make for a good holiday. Another opportunity! This time to learn more intimately the workings of the plumbing system on Tiffany Rose. Steve left his bow fluff postion and jumped in with both arms and we set to fix it right. After a trip to the hardware store and a $0.25 part and some vasoline we had it running smoothly again. Ahhh! Meanwhile, in order to avoid too many feet potentially sloshing around in foul slosh, Christopher took Shirley and Syl to shore to tour the local hot spots, all diligently photographed by our official photographer.
Change of plans! With the head fixed we still had time to head out and decided to hit the reef once more. The weather was a bit threatening but nothing bad going on. Just as we arrived to the reef a voice came over the radio announcing a waterspout south of Marathon. “Hey, that’s where we are!” Shirley and I scanned the waters and sure enough, to the east of us there it was. A tornado over water reaching from the clouds to the water and creating local chaos. Yikes! We don’t have experience in sailing in water spouts in the ocean so 180 degree turn was made, the bow fluff returned to the cockpit and Tiffany Rose’s engine scurried us back to the harbour.

They're here! Steve and Syl's visit begins! March 16 and 17

They’re here! Unlike Patti’s arrival at midnight, Steve and Syl arrived mid afternoon on a pretty nice day. First order of business after the dinghy ride to shore was to kick back on the boat and relax, eat and drink, and then eat and drink again at supper. Kind of a regular day in the Keys! They fit into this culture quite impressively. Our first real adventure the next day was to release the mooring ball and head out to the coral reef at Sombrero Key. Since our guests had recently completed their SCUBA courses and had a fabulous underwater experience with the family down in Australia we were eager to explore this great reef with them. The winds and sun looked like a good one for this and we weren’t dissappointed. As we were arriving we could tell the conditions were good because almost all the moorings were taken. At first plunge everyone was amazed at the number and variety of fish. Snappers, damsels, rays, parrots, and plenty of barracuddas. One of them looked at Shirley in the wrong way and she swam an impressively strong speed back to the boat. Christopher had some great views with his mask on and then we popped into the dinghy with the glassbottom bucket for more relaxed viewing. This gave him a chance to get a fuller view of what his books show so well. The water was still rolly and some stomachs were getting a bit turned over a bit. As the wind died down the surface became very calm and it was spectacular to see so clearly below right from the boat. We could see all the fish as if we were looking into a giant (very giant) aquarium! On the way back Steve and Syl resumed their positions relaxing at the bow of boat – this relaxed mode is affectionately known as “Bow fluff”. Of course we returned to more food and beverages to watch another Keys sunset and to blow the conch shell.

Trains, Guitars, Space shuttle and cleaning our bottom

One big advantage to cruising in the Florida Keys is the way we can still access other things. Here we are hanging out in these funky islands and at the same time planning a great surprise for Christopher - a big train event in Miami called A Day Out With Thomas. The tickets were bought, the car was rented and off we went down highway 1 to the big city. We have been to similar events at home in the summer and this day felt even more summery than those did. There was lots to do but mostly it was watching the trains come and go and travel down the tracks that Christopher loves. A feast of train action it was.

Other items occupying us lately have us thinking about an imminent departure from Boot Key harbor. Because we have been here over a month there is a definite layer of growth happening on the bottom of the boat. A fine marine biology study indeed. So yesterday with wetsuit and snorkel on and Christopher and Shirley supporting with a scrub brush from the dinghy, I dove under the boat to start scraping this stuff off. I was surprised at the cloud of life that would drift past my mask with each scrape. We also took Sea Jay 2, our dinghy, over to the beach and flipped it over to clean its bottom. We all feel way better now. We highly recommend cleaning your dinghies guys!

This evening (Sunday) was fun on two accounts. First we had a great guitar jam session on board Tiffany Rose. Chris and Divya from Maggie M came over and it was our mutual tastes in music that made it a rockin' good time. I hope the neighbouring boats agreed! And while this was going on we got to witness a space shuttle launch from a few hundred miles away. It was impressively bright and the trail was clear as day.
Tomorrow Steve and Syl arrive for a March break week of fun. This may be a bit different than the other cruises they are used to. But our cruise director Christopher will ensure a good time for all! Dinner at the Captain's table tomorrow.

What a visit! March 6-11

Since September 15 the 3 of us have been cosily living on Tiffany Rose. We have had others on board to visit, have cocktails and all that but not to stay over. So we were very curious what it would be like to have someone live on board with us. Could we handle it well? Could they? What would they think about the lack of privacy close quarters affords? And how does that toilet thing work anyway?? This week my sister Patti courageously ventured down this way on her own arriving at a hard-to-find-in-the-dark marina at around midnight. It didn't take long at all for her to settle in and before we knew it we were all getting up in the morning for bacon and eggs and to plan the day. Now it feels like we are on holidays too. So with a slathering of sun screen off to the beach we went. The winds of the last few weeks are still here but the sun came out enough to allow us to lounge around doing beach stuff. And then, since Patti had a car it was off to a water side seafood restaurant and a treat for Christopher - mini golf!

Next morning we released the mooring ball and headed out to Bahia Honda Key. With gravol ingested we hoisted the sails and Patti was plunged into her first ocean sail. The wind was at our backs and the waves pushed us along - as well as up and down a lot. By the time we were heading in to the anchorage the wind was really howling and I was getting great views as the helm rode over the large swells. The anchorage was fairly calm and we were able to put the motor on the dinghy and head to shore for some exploring and beaching and snorkeling. Christopher is in charge of all tours and he upheld this duty in fine form all the while taking 300 or so pictures. The weather was very kind to us and after a fun time on the key we headed back to the boat to get the BBQ going and pour a few sundowner drinks. Patti is adapting well to these sea going rituals! The nights this week have been almost as beautiful as the days. The beautiful bright moon has been dancing on the water while the stars display their ancient patterns.

The next day we head back out onto the ocean with the wind on our nose. On our way back we decide to check out the reef a few miles out, mistakenly thinking the seas will have calmed down a bit. After struggling with the mooring ball and having the line wrap around the keel in a threatening way we finally get moored out there. What fun! After taking the mainsail down and losing the stability it provides we are rocking violently from side to side and up and down. One of those sick Wonderland rides designed to release you of your lunch. Patti is surpassing all tests now! She sat there like this was normal for her while I felt like my insides and outsides were not agreeing on how to handle this ride. A plunge into the water for a quick snorkel and a careful re-boarding helped my body get back into kilter. The sail back was Patti's time to take the helm (see video below). And as with everything else she did so flawlessly. Woo-hoo! We got to eat lunch while she held our course!

Back on land for the final day of the keys adventure - off to Key West! This city was very lively with Spring Break party people in various states of dress and drink. A bit of a contrast to the folks off the cruise ships in various states of hair and drink. We had lunch at Dante's which has a great pool for patrons which Christopher and I took advantage of while the lady folk went cruising the town. Christopher loved the security of swimming in a pool for the first time on this trip. We'll have to seek out more of these! The rest of the day was wandering with cameras in hand to see a few requisite attractions and then to end up at Mallory Square for the sunset spectacle. As the sun set I got to try out my new present that Patti picked up in the afternoon - a conch shell to blow to salute the setting sun. The sun hit the horizon and now was my chance, while a 1000 or so people watched from the square. Raised it to my lips, gave a mighty blow and "Pflipfff!" Hmm, more to this than meets the eye. A few heads turned, but likely not in adulation. After a few more tries the trumpeting we were wating for sounded from the conch and all was good again. Christopher, though, was just as impressed with the first ones, at least he smiled a lot.

A drive back to Marathon and a late night dinghy back to Tiffany Rose and Patti's visit was winding up. The 5:30 rise to get to the airport was given more significance as Christopher was not to be satisfied with a kiss goodbye. He briskly popped out of bed and put his life jacket on over his pajamas to assume his customary role as dinghy driver. And he did so in splendid fashion. A fitting send off to end a fabulous visit. Thanks for coming Patti!!

Company's coming! March 5,2009

Company's coming! Tomorrow night Dave's sister Patti arrives for a visit and then during the March Break his brother Steve and wife Syl will arrive. Exciting for us and we hope for them too. Our first overnight guests since the adventure began!

We are still in Marathon as we await their arrival. We talk to some boaters here who say they arrived three years ago and planned to stay for a week and they are still here. Why? As I mentioned before, it is the most sheltered harbour around so it attracts a lot of boaters. With that comes a sort of community. It kind of feels like summer camp to us, with the long term residents being the camp counsellors and us new arrivals being the wide eyed campers. There is something for everybody. Dave goes to a guitar jam evening, I found a yoga class and Christopher does Phys. Ed with the local home schoolers.

Although the Keys are not known for their beaches there is a nice beach at a community park that we dinghy to some days. When the wind stops howling we take Tiffany Rose out to the reef to snorkel and when we can't go we explore closer to shore from Sea Jay 2 (our dinghy). We have a glass bottom bucket and we've seen some interesting things through it, like the sea star in the picture.

The wind has been howling this week and there are a lot of boats waiting for that elusive window to cross to the Bahamas. The windows have been few and far between this winter. We hear that the Gulf Stream crossing is often more gentle in the spring, so we will consider the trip again in late March before we head north.

February 24- Pilgrimage to Margaritaville

When we first left on this trip, I pictured that in going to the Keys, by sailboat, that the ultimate destination was Key West. But the further south we'd go, other boaters would talk about this place called Marathon. I didn't get it. Why not Key West? The guide book says although the marinas are out of range of most budgets, there are mooring balls there, or you could anchor. And who has heard of Marathon anyway?

Well......we've been in Marathon now for about two weeks. The thing about these Keys is, they are these small little bits of land, on one side you've got the Atlantic Ocean which can get pretty raucous when the wind is just so, and on the other side you've got Florida Bay or the Gulf of Mexico which can get pretty raucous when the wind is just so the other way. Marathon? Well it has this harbour that pretty much offers protection from all sides. And most of what you need to get by is within walking distance. Sometimes a long walking distance mind you, by available nonetheless.

"Take the bus, rent a car, but leave your boat in Marathon" the advice was, when we'd ask experienced boaters about Key West. We still weren't convinced. But we'd booked a car for the day we went to the Dolphin Research Center, and the price was right so we kept it for two days. "Lets go see Key West now, so that when we go there to anchor we'll be familiar with it." .....and off we went.

On the way we stopped at "the only miniature golf in the Keys" on Ramrod Key because it had been far too long since Christopher, our mini golf pro, had been on the links. A fun course, complete with a tunnel cave, waterfalls and ponds that capture the ball. Then on to Jimmy Buffett's promised land.

We drove to the "southernmost point in the continental U.S." spot then had to be quite creative in finding a parking space. And then we walked and walked and walked everywhere. It was definitely Key West and although we turned down the opportunity to patronize the clothing optional bar we got the flavour of a fun loving town. We enjoyed a relaxed supper at an outdoor cafe and then headed to Mallory Square for the sunset celebration. Quite a sight to behold, crowds of people at the western tip of the Key watching and applauding the sun set, and magicians, human statues, all sorts of entertainment going on.

We of course tried to glimpse the mooring and anchoring area and enroute to do that, stopped to talk with a woman selling the ferry trip to the Dry Tortugas. Christopher mentioned Tiffany Rose and when she realized that we were 'cruisers', she said, " Oh, I'm so envious, I lived on my sailboat for two years and just sold it." So of course we started asking her all sorts of questions about places to go, and she was very helpful and positive. When I asked her about anchoring or mooring there she said it was the worst anchorage she'd ever been in. Basically it boils down to not being a very protected spot, with a very long and rough dinghy ride to shore, so unless you've got a nice stretch of calm weather, it doesn't rank high in the 'comfortable places to be" list.

We left thinking that one day was not enough time there. Whether by boat in a calm stretch, or with Dave's sister by car when she comes for a visit soon we hope to get back there again.

Touched By A Dolphin

About 9 miles down the road from where we are at Boot Key Harbor is the Dolphin Research Centre. It seemed like a good thing to do so we rented a car to go check it out. Since November we have been seeing lots of dolphins, sometimes leaping into the air and sometimes riding our waves, so we didn't know what we would think of dolphins in captivity. Many people recommended it though and that convinced us to give it a try. Good thing - it was a fabulous day. They really do a great job there and the staff all seem to be fully engaged and enjoying what they are doing. Of course a good part of the day is the entertainment of them presenting what the dolphins can do, flipping through the air and all that but they also spend a good effort at education on ecological factors for dolphins and other sea life as well as a focus on environmentally friendly practices in general. One of their philosophies is that if you care about something you will strive to protect it. And a day with the dolphins really builds that human-animal connection. A highlight for Christopher was to get up close and personal as part of one of the optional programs. We didn't know how he would react to getting so close but it would be worth the try. So he and Shirley went out on the little dock and waited for the instructions from the trainer for the two different dolphin interactions. The first was the swim pass touch. You lean over the water and the dolphin swims slowly by and you stoke its back. Christopher had a bit of trouble with the balance while leaning over with one hand but he got the hang of it. Success - "Oooooo!" ( I think you can see him saying that in the picture). The next was to shake hands face to face. Again the balance was difficult but he had warmed up to the whole thing and was able to do it properly. "Whoa!" "Cool". It wasn't long ago that he would have balked at getting into the same space as a large creature like a dolphin and here he was shaking hands. You should know as well, that Shirley was very brave too! She likes touching mammal skin. What a day!

Don't know the reason...stayed here all season...

The last few days we have been getting to know the area around here. Our mooring area isn’t the most picturesque but it has character. As the sun sets each evening the view across the harbour is quite a site. Over 200 masts all against a backdrop of the blazing sun accompanied by the sound of number of sailors blowing their conchs, saluting the setting sun. Then when it is dark it looks amazing with all the masts burning anchor lights. It appears as two different star-filled skies, one of anchor lights and one of real stars. Often there are events going on organized by other cruisers. A big pot luck dinner the other night with live music was pretty nice. Right beside the marina is a nice community park and we have spent some time there playing ball and Frisbee. Yesterday we sailed out onto the ocean again and anchored at Bahia Honda Key, just off the beach of the state park. Except for the highway in the background (see picture) it is a beautiful spot. We swam and snorkeled a bit there as well. These state parks are a good deal. When you anchor out and dinghy in there is no charge. Always on the search for free stuff…! We may be here for a little while still. There's something mesmerizing about swaying on a mooring ball...

Sooo coool!

Today we headed out for some ocean exploring. Our destination was Sombrero Key reef, five miles off shore from Marathon. The reef along the outside of the Keys is amazing. It is the second largest reef in the world, next to the great barrier reef. Just as we were leaving the wind started to build so the calm waters we were hoping for were looking a bit choppy. By the time we were a few miles out we were bouncing quite a bit. The great thing about this area is that mooring balls are provided out at the reefs in good diving spots. This prevents people anchoring around the reefs and destroying them by anchoring in the wrong spots. We picked up one of the moorings and looked overboard. We were immediately amazed at the myriad of fish we could see right over the side. Christopher was very excited because we had just started reading a book about coral reefs - and poof - here we are! Next was the really interesting part getting in the water. The trick was trying to do this safely five miles out in the ocean while waves are rolling along, the boat was bouncing up and down and Christopher is basically a non-swimmer. The first moments in the water were followed by gasps and coughing as a wave instantly hit him in the face. After gripping me in a rather aggressive bear hug for a few minutes he settled down and decided to take a look below. That was worth it! Then again and again. I think he likes it! Shirley and I also took turns snorkeling and life guarding. The sights below were the best we've seen. All kinds of different shapes and sizes of fish along with an abundance of coral varieties. The fish seemed to like the boat and many of them clustered around. Looking underneath I noticed a 3 foot barracuda was happily lounging in the shade there. Some friends who were out as well came over and told us of a large turtle they saw. We didn't see it until we were almost done. We caught a couple of good pictures of it this time and believe it is a loggerhead. Cute.

To the Heart of the Keys

We left Islamorada and went a short distance to a beautiful spot called Lignumvitae Key. The beauty of it was that we were really out there on our own with the island there, the water and the sun. In this area we are also traversing the southern edge of the Everglades National Park. Just water and islands. After a peaceful stay there with some jumping off the boat into the water ( Christopher enjoyed filming the one can opener I did) the weather looked good for heading out to the ocean side again. So on Thursday morning we sailed off into the Hawk Channel on our way to Marathon. The winds were rather light so we were surprised that the water was as wavey as it was. Nothing bad but it made it feel like we were out on the ocean again. The colour of the water was spectacular and with the combination of about 80 degrees and sun from the sky and the water it felt really hot out there. We were also greeted by a few sea turtles and then a shark swam right by the boat. Can't wait to go snorkeling...

Our destination was Boot Key harbor in Marathon. We arrived to the sight of about 300 boats in the harbour, most moored neatly in rows on mooring balls. A lot different than the spot we just left! You can see some of the boats in the picture of Shirley in the kayak. This is the destination of choice for many cruisers who head south. It is quite a place, in a very sheltered harbour. Many of the boats have been here since December and won't leave until March. Every morning there is a "cruisers net" on the VHF radio with info on what is happening in the harbour. Last night we joined a musical jam session at the Tiki hut on shore. For Valentines supper we went out to the Dockside Bar and Grill. It was a great atmosphere and a terrific live singer/guitar player. Never had a shrimp and sourkraut sandwich before but it was delicious - so was the Key Lime pie that Christopher loved as well. We plan to hang out here a bit and see what it is all about.

Poss Abilities in Australia!

No Grandma - we aren't sailing to Australia. But it is interesting that the Down Syndrome Association in New South Wales heard about our trip and included us in their blog. This was back in January but I forgot to include it then because we had poor internet service much of January. It is fun and inspiring to get connected around the world like that. As a result we have had a number of comments and emails from some great people who have started to follow us as a result. We also need to appologize that we can't always respond because of our lack of connectivity and often just because of time. Here is a link to the blog.

http://keepingupwithds.blogspot.com/ Because it was back in January it is pretty far down the list. If you type poss in the search box at the top left of their page it should come up. Thanks to Jill O'Connor of the NSW Down Syndrome Association for pursuing this connection!

Island Hopping Time Feb 7-9

The last few days we have gotten more into the Keys. Christopher likes the idea of going to another Key. Like with many other things he can then check it off his mental list and get on to the next thing. His latest activity has been to learn to drive the dinghy. The last little while we have had good open areas to practice although it only took a few tries before he got the hang of it - push away to go left, pull towards to go right - and twist the throttle. It has made many of our excursions a little more relaxing for Shirley and me and a bit more exciting for Christopher. On Sunday we were anchored off of Key Largo and wanted to go to John Pennekamp park. It was a very long dinghy ride from our boat to the Key, then through a canal that cut through the Key to Largo Sound and then along Largo Sound to the park marina. Lots of driving opportunity there but also lots of opportunity to get soaked. The wind has been howling for what seems like weeks now and it kicks up even the smaller bodies of water. For our little inflatable dinghy with a 6hp engine it means we get splashed alot, like alot! Our regular "Sunday Drive" attire is full rain suits. Fashionable but not pretentious. The park was a fun place to visit, nestled in a beautiful mangrove shoreline. We hope to get out to the reefs on ocean side to snorkel when the wind dies down. Our next stop was Islamorada. We found a nice anchorage close to a dinghy docking spot (tying up to the mangroves) with access to most amenities. With laundry having been ignored for the last long while it was time to seek out a laundromat. When we found it it was a hefty walk, which was not encouraging. On a whim we walked into the resort across the road and asked if we could use their dock for this vital chore. The lady there was wonderful and let us pull right in! What joy we get from the simple things and the kindness of strangers!

A Little Boca Chita Feb 5-7

The winds have been blowing hard from the north for a while now, and many boats have been waiting for the seemingly elusive opportunity to cross the Gulf Stream in safe conditions, but it has been over two weeks since the last favourable winds. So it is time to move on. We headed out to the neatest little island called Boca Chita Key, part of the Biscayne national park. It is a beautiful spot that was partially developed back in the 20s by Mark Honeywell (of thermostat fame). Now it is just a nice place to tie up a boat - especially on week days. Weekends the loud music on big boats arrive beating out the tunes of their cultural heritage. A very different flavour but still fun. If you look at the pictures you can see Tiffany Rose tied up and in the background only a few steps away is the ocean. A Ranger came along and gave a talk on the different ecosystems. More boating schooling on-the-fly! Christopher was interested in the different corals she brought along to show us, like the fan coral he's holding in the picture. We spent some good time exploring the island and going out at night to see if we could see the large land crabs that have been digging huge burrows all over the place. But they didn't show themselves to us.

Close Encounters - February 4,2009

For the past few days we have been scooting around Biscayne Bay, having some great sails and stocking up on groceries and supplies – seems like we are always out hunting and gathering to provide for the family. At the moment we are back at the Crandon Park marina, this time at a slip because it is a low cost and good location and a strong arctic front is coming in. Walking around the docks here we can see the bottom in the fairly clear water. Lots of fish swimming around down there to see. And then last evening Christopher and I were out checking them out and then there it was - SHARK! (oops I forgot to precede this with “Grandma, please skip this section to the next paragraph…”) It was very cool and swam by us for two passings. It was about a five foot nurse shark, which is not a person-eating variety (if you are reading this Grandma!). There is also a resident barracuda we have seen a number of times. Then this morning while I was chatting with some other folks here Christopher was observing in the same area and as we joined up he said “I saw a ray.” Cool again! “Show me” I said and when we got back to the spot there was a ray swimming around. Now if that wasn’t cool enough, while we were sailing on the Bay we saw a sea turtle. With the water so clear in that area it was easy to see all its markings and then it dove down and we sailed on. Our latest thing is to start fishing here. Today was our first day and we caught 3 off the back of the boat. They were small ones (Lane Snappers we think) but it was still exciting!
Being in this area has also meant meeting up with other interesting humans. We have met some other boats who we have come to know from other parts of our journey – Chocobo, Icongnita and Abraxas. And then there is Kevon and Debbie who live on their boat at the marina and drove us to the city to shop and then came over in the evening to swap sailing stories. Having had our share of mishaps as new sailors on this journey it is comforting to hear about those of well seasoned sailors!